Sunday, 26 May 2013

Pasta Emilia, Surry Hills | Grab Your Fork: A Sydney food blog

fresh pasta drying on racks at pasta emilia surry hills

It used to be a molasses factory. Nowadays it's home to Pasta Emilia, a family-run business specialising in organic pasta and sauces that first opened in Bronte in 2004. The converted warehouse is the perfect setting for its bustling cafe, set up like an Italian dining hall with high ceilings, communal tables and bentwood chairs.

wooden crates and scooter at entrance to pasta emilia surry hills
Crates and scooter at the entrance to Pasta Emilia

Central to the hubbub of activity is co-owner Anna Maria Eoclidi. She seems to know just about everyone, a radiant ever-smiling host who flits between tables, the kitchen and the service counter with a natural ease.

Eoclidi hails from the Emilia-Romagna region, famous for so many foods but primarily renowned for its pasta. More than half of the pastas you are likely to know (ravioli, tortellini, tagliatelle, lasagna, cannelloni, just for starters) originated here.

In Emilia-Romagna you'll find Modena (of balsamic vinegar fame), Reggio Emilia (parmigiano reggiano), Parma (can you say prosciutto?) and Bologna (hello bolognaise). It's a food lover's paradise.

communal seating at pasta emilia surry hills
Communal seating in the dining room

At Pasta Emilia, the menu is short and sweet. There's a marked focus on good quality produce with breakfast options that run from organic eggs and?guanciale Italian bacon (made from pork cheeks) to?raw organic honey?with Mungalli Creek ricotta on Iggy's sourdough toast. Stay virtuous with poached eggs, steamed kale and ricotta or go all out with scrambled eggs and truffle butter served with homemade baked beans on toast.

On a Friday lunch, the dining room is a happy chaos of patrons. Lunch options include panini sandwiches with prosciutto, preservative-free ham or biodynamic ricotta ($8.50-$10) and antipasti (mixed salumi and/or cheeses with bruschetta at $13-$23) but we only have eyes for the pasta.

strozza preti with bolognese sauce at pasta emilia surry hills
Strozza preti al ragu di carne and parmigiano $12 small

There are four choices on the pasta menu, but the strozza preti is worth prioritising. Strozza preti are short twists of hand-rolled pasta, beautifully uneven in size and shape but perfect for catching hearty chunks of rich and saucy beef ragu. In Italian, strozza preti translates to "priest strangler" and some say it's because some greedy priests scoffed down this delicious treat so fast that they ended up choking, sometimes ending in death!

There's a satisfying chewiness to these twisted ropes of pasta, coated with a slow-simmered tomato sauce studded with tender beef. Strozza preti is a particular specialty of the Emilia region, with Parmesan cheese traditionally incorporated into the pasta dough.

kale flower pecorino and potato tortelli at pasta emilia surry hills
Kale flower, pecorino and potato tortelli served with anchovy salsa verde?$22 large

Tortellini originated in the Emilia region too, specifically Bologna and Modena. Tortelli are a larger version - here these pasta pockets are filled with a mix of kale flowers, pecorino and potato.

The handmade tortelli are smooth as silk but also have a pleasing al dente bite. There's a fresh zing from the salsa verde and a salty hit from the anchovy reclining on top.

chilli sauce and parmesan cheese at pasta emilia surry hills
Chilli sauce and Parmesan cheese for the table ?

Even the little things, like fresh chilli sauce and grated fresh parmesan cheese in matching jars brought to the table, are a welcome homestyle touch.

rocket radicchio and fennel salad at pasta emilia surry hills
Rucola, radicchio e finocchio?$8
Rocket, radicchio and fennel salad

On the side we dig into a generously-sized rocket, radicchio and fennel salad.

espresso at pasta emilia surry hills
Espresso?

We finish with an Italian espresso and a crumbly but soft biscotti that seems to defiantly straddle the line between cake and biscuit.

biscotti at pasta emilia surry hills
Biscotti

pasta makers at pasta emilia surry hills
Pasta makers used during pasta-making classes

Out the back you can wander among the pasta making machines used during classes and even spy into the pasta preparation area. There you might find pasta being rolled out, cut or packed into bags ready for sale.

decor at pasta emilia surry hills
Rustic decor

homemade jams and preserves at pasta emilia surry hills
Homemade jams and preserves

high chairs at pasta emilia surry hills
High chairs?

iggy's bread at pasta emilia surry hills
Iggy's bread on the counter?

fresh pasta at pasta emilia surry hills
Fresh pasta

truffle cream and spelt pasta at pasta emilia surry hills
Truffle cream and spelt pasta

A little slice of Italy in Surry Hills. It's like going abroad in your lunch break without the hassle!


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Pasta Emilia
259 Riley Street, Surry Hills, Sydney
(corner of Reservoir Street)
Tel: +61 (0)432 969 426

Opening hours:
Tuesday to Friday 8am-6pm (cafe closes 4pm)
Saturday 8am-4pm


Related Grab Your Fork posts:
Italian - Buffalo Dining Club, Darlinghurst
Italian -?121 BC, Surry Hills
Italian - La Casa Ristorante, Russell Lea
Italian - Signorelli Gastronomia, Pyrmont
Italian - Via Napoli, Lane Cove

Source: http://grabyourfork.blogspot.com/2013/05/pasta-emilia-surry-hills.html

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